He Says - Dakla, 4 walls and a grey girl

26 -30 Sept 09

We woke early and got read to go we knew it was going to be a long arduous ride and were ready for it. Well kinda, okay I was not at all but it had to be done and Tam can’t ride the bike. I had to be readyish.

We got on the road by 0900h and by 1000h we had cut off 100km. We had also been stopped 3 times by the cops. It was going to be a tedious day too. In truth the ride was much easier then I thought it would be. In total we only got stopped 6 times and 2 were just passing stops.

The scenery was stunning the beaches, the cliffs, the sand dunes; all amazing. So far Western Sahara is the best part of Morocco I cant believe that it is the untouristed part of the county. It is the only part that I would like to come back to. All was not roses though. We stopped for lunch at a place with no name sign or other markings, bought a couple of Fantas and ate our ham(ish) (cus pork is not eaten here) and cheese sandwiches, but no sooner did we finish did Tam say she was not well. Like trooper she got back on the bike and I heard no more about it until Dakla.

The view and the new road game we came up with was enough to make the final 300km only drag by. We arrived in Dakla to the most unfriendly cop pull over.. He took our passports took the data off them and then through them on the table and that was it. ALL the others were at least polite if not chatty (too chatty mostly). We stopped in the campground were we planned on staying and found out that the cost was going to be 100dh per night and it was 7k out of town. We decided to look in town at cheep hotels first then decide. On route in some kids started throwing rock at us. It was enough to make me fall back in to the anger that I was feeling in M’hamid and Zagora. The cheapest hotels were in town clean and 80dh but no parking (so cheaper then camping). We looked at one that was cheaper still and would try to get the bike in the front door. But there was no way it would fit besides it was a little dirty. But the owner suggested an other place and we decided to look. We did think though that it would be well out of our price range. Tam was feeling very unwell at this point so I was doing the entire running around. We easily found the suggested hotel. It looked nice, I left Tam out front to nurse her belly and I investigated.

The rooms were stunning and were the same price as camping. Private bath added 50dh, and they have a locked garage. I was sold only question was do we need a private bath. I went out to talk to Tam to see her dutifully defending Anubis from a retarded man who was harmlessly poking every button he could find (good thing he did not find the 268db horn button!!). Tam however brave, was grey.. private bath it was. We parked the bike, and moved into the room, thrilled at the price. Tam was now a nice shade of green, in the next few hours she started to have diarrhoea and vomiting.

She took the drugs she had purchased for me, but they seemed to help little. I went out to get her something light for dinner (which I ate for breakfast the next day). I ate my dinner alone in a little fish shop, I was never hassled, or begged from. We were both in bed by 1900h.

Tam ended up having a rough night, worse then I did a few nights earlier. She was alternating between bouts of diarrhoea and vomiting. I got up early and unsuccessfully ran some errands. It was Sunday, and the next day we were to head for the border.

I am worried. It is about 350k ok for fuel but leaves us with little to spare to get anywhere in Mauritania. We have read lots of conflicting reports about how safe it is, how easy it it, if it is a paved road or not, the one section we know is not paved we don’t know if it is 50km, 5km or as little as 1km. The track could be really bad to Tassie dirt road. We just don’t know. As Ted Simon once said it is harder to contemplate doing something then actually do it. So far this has been mostly true. With the exception of the N12 road just ending , it was scarier to contemplate then do it.

Well a day later and we have not moved at all. In fact Tam has not moved more then a few meters in the last 72 hours. She has gotten over her bouts of diarrhoea and vomiting but it has left her weak and tired. Every time she got out of bed, she felt sick and had to lie back down. I have walked around Dakla a couple of times and there is very little of interest here. Although there is some big kite-surfing championships going on I think that they are being held away from the city as I cannot find it. As a general rule Western Sahara is a nice, place although I know I have been charged tourist prices a few times. One guy added up the bill in French and then add a few dh like I would not notice the cheeky bastard then ran a round the corner and asked me for money to help his family.

It is sad but I did not regret leaving Morocco. I have found it hard work. The people can be extremely nice but their constant vying for money (with out working for it) had really ruined this place for me. It has tainted the beauty of the landscape and the culture. The constant buzzing in my face has changed my initial opinion, I can not say that they are not a friendly people only a people that will do anything for your money. They lie, cheat and likely steal (although this has not happened to us). The country itself is stunning and I wish I could see more of the landscape, and maybe I will one day but at this point I am looking forward to heading to a place that is less touristed and more real. The big cites like Marrakech have a Disneyland like ambiance to them, e.g not the real Morocco just a play to encourage the tourists. Rabat did not care if we where there or not only that we got out of their car’s way. The smaller towns were a mix of both nice and dirty, and it only seemed like the time of day depended on if you were to get hassled or not. It appears to me that like so many developing countries Moroccans want the what the Europeans have and they want it now, and not work for it. They are building new building all the time and yet neglect the nice ones that exist. The park across the street from where I typed this is full of benches (~20) all but 3 are broken. There seems to be an attitude of buy, build it, but never maintain it. This is evident in almost everything, many buildings are built then finished in a shabby manner (e.g. as much paint on the floor as the wall), cars are bough and at most maintained to keep on the road but basically wrecked, sticker are printed for cars (or bike panniers) that last a week and houses that were once stunning are falling to bits. Most houses are only painted on the front the sides and rear are exposed brick and often unfinished. A big TV, a big car and a tiny mobile phone are the most important things to the new Moroccan.

But the worst thing about morocco is that sometimes, people come up to you with the only intention of being nice and helpful, but the touts and beggars have rubbed you so raw that you physically flinch at their approach, your knee jerk reaction is “no go away, I’ll not pay you”. But the person is only trying to be nice and help. I have been rude to several people under these circumstances, for that I am sorry. I am sorry to that 0.00001% or your population, which are these good people. To the rest of you money-grubbing rude greedy bastards, you will have to answer to your god one day.

I know I keep quoting him but Ted Simon was once ask was he ever disappointed in anywhere he travelled, he replied “I never go anywhere with expectations so I am never disappointed”. Well I came here with expectations. Expectations of legendary hospitality, of clean Islamic living, of tea served at the drop of a hat, of the Sahara, and of a people that lived to a code of honour. We have seen many of these in Tunisia, so I know they exist, but the influx of the tourist euro has forever tainted Morocco. My expectations were not met and I was disappointed. Maybe next time I will be the smarter one and see the next country with open eyes and not with almost impossible expectations for it to live up to.