She Says - Bandiagara

18 October
A short drive after a slow start, we got to Bandiagara, the Dogon Country’s ‘capital’, by 10.30am and checked into Auberge Kansaye. It was the first place we looked at, but it sounded good from the guidebook, was cheap (8000CFA), and it had a good feel. Didn’t hurt it is run by a Rastafarian and the restaurant was playing Bob Marley! Speaking English, Bouba said we could find a guide through him, so we arranged a meeting to see what he was like. Our plan had been to follow the guidebook’s guidance and check out the local tourism office and make sure the guide was ‘approved’ by them. However, when Tiemoko Togo arrived, more mature than many guides and less flashy dressed, he also had a good feel, offered a better price than Alex in Djenné (20,000CFA per person per day) and we liked him! He understood our needs and abilities – I’m not good at hiking in heat or sand (we get both!) and our camera bags have little room for equipment. He assured us the hiking is not too difficult, we can stick to lower tracks and walking is fairly short each day, plus it is warm at night and there is plenty of accommodation so we need only our sleeping bag liners and pillows. We’re going with our guts here - hope it works out! We set off early tomorrow morning for 4 days – hope it’s not too hot!!! We have been able to pack well and small with our little camera bags, with a single change of underwear and socks, torch, basic toiletries and medkit. We have our Camelbak waterpacks, custom-fitted to our packs, and water is readily accessible along the way. Basically we’re loaded with cameras! I’m very pleased about this, as originally we thought we could not trek with these bags. Our gear and the bike are being stored for free so long as we come back and stay after the trek (no question there!). Our only worry now is how well I will be able to cope with the heat (Xander is very concerned after my little episode in Mauritania) and slow trudging through the sand!

As we drove to Bandiagara that morning, Xander had said the front wheel was feeling funny. When we arrived at the auberge, we found a crucial bolt in the back axle was about to slide out! This could have been major, dropping out the whole back end of the bike and probably sending us flying. After asking Tiemo, our guide, where we could by a new nut to replace the one that had gone missing, he very kindly ran out and got us one, as well as a new bolt as the original had stripped. Phew! In true Ozzie fashion, we gave him a beer when he came back for a drink that night. It turns out he’s best mates with the auberge owner, so we’re holding him responsible for our trek experience!

Have to note we had a fantastic lunch at La Petit Restaurant, the best meal we’ve had in long time, though not the cheapest – we’ll be back! Food is nice at the auberge – simple, tasty, and cheap and the drinks are large and cold!